Introduction
Shikoku, Japan’s smallest main island, is often overlooked by international travelers—but those who make the journey are rewarded with a deeply authentic experience. Shikoku’s cuisine reflects its rugged mountains, rich fishing grounds, and long-standing spiritual traditions. With a slower pace of life and a stronger connection to the land and sea, each of Shikoku’s four prefectures—Kagawa, Ehime, Kochi, and Tokushima—offers a unique culinary identity shaped by centuries of local pride and ingenuity. From handmade udon to yuzu-soaked dishes, this guide introduces the flavors of Shikoku through the eyes of a local.
Kagawa: The Udon Capital of Japan
Sanuki Udon
Kagawa is synonymous with one thing: udon. Sanuki udon is known for its firm, chewy texture and wide variety of ways to enjoy it—served cold with dipping sauce, hot in broth, or even with raw egg. Locals often embark on “udon pilgrimages,” visiting multiple shops in a day, each with its own homemade style.
How to Eat Like a Local:
Many udon shops are self-service—grab a tray, order your noodles, choose your toppings (tempura, green onions, grated ginger), and pay by the number of items. It’s fast, cheap, and incredibly satisfying.
Other Local Dishes:
- Bone-in Chicken (Honetsukidori): A whole leg of chicken, heavily seasoned and roasted until crispy, served on the bone.
- Iri Dofu: Tofu sautéed with vegetables, soy sauce, and sometimes ground meat. A humble but hearty side dish.
Travel Tip:
Don’t miss the Nakano Udon School in Takamatsu, where you can learn to make udon from scratch—kneading the dough with your feet included!
Ehime: Citrus Hills and Castle Town Comforts
Tai Meshi
This dish has two versions. In Southern Ehime (Uwajima), raw sea bream (tai) is marinated in a soy-based sauce and served over rice with raw egg and toppings. In Northern Ehime (Imabari/Matsuyama), the whole sea bream is cooked with rice in a pot, infusing the grains with umami.
Jakoten
A beloved street snack made from ground small fish (including bones), deep-fried into a flat patty. It’s rich in flavor and often served hot with soy sauce or grated daikon.
Mikan Everything
Ehime is Japan’s leading producer of mikan (mandarin oranges), and locals incorporate citrus into everything: juice, jams, desserts, even bath salts. Try mikan soft-serve or freshly squeezed juice on arrival at Matsuyama Airport.
B-grade Gourmet:
- Imabari Yakibuta Tamago Meshi: Grilled pork belly and sunny-side-up eggs served on a bed of rice, topped with sweet-savory sauce—a popular local fast food.
Cultural Insight:
Ehime’s cuisine emphasizes comfort, freshness, and a gentle sweetness, mirroring its relaxed, sunny coastal lifestyle and abundant citrus groves.
Kochi: Bold Flavors and Seaside Traditions
Katsuo no Tataki
This is Kochi’s pride and joy: skipjack tuna (bonito) seared over a straw fire, sliced thickly, and served with garlic, green onions, and ponzu. The smoky aroma and fresh texture are unforgettable.
Sakana Ryori (Local Fish Dishes)
Kochi’s long coastline means an abundance of fresh seafood. Seasonal offerings include grilled moray eel, sashimi of hamo (conger eel), and even whale meat in some traditional eateries.
Sawachi Ryori
A party platter unique to Kochi, featuring a mountain of seafood, vegetables, and fried items arranged on a large communal plate. It’s a reflection of Kochi’s love for gatherings and hospitality.
Local Drinks:
Kochi is known for its dry sake and its love of alcohol—locals even have a word for habitual heavy drinkers: “yopparai bunka” (drunken culture). Sake is often paired with katsuo or grilled river eel.
Travel Tip:
Experience Hirome Market in Kochi City for a casual, lively food court atmosphere where locals mix with tourists, and you can sample everything from tataki to gyoza.
Tokushima: Mountain Produce and Fermented Ingenuity
Sudachi Flavors
Tokushima’s signature citrus is sudachi—a small, aromatic green lime. It’s used to flavor everything from grilled fish to soba and even shochu cocktails.
Iya Soba
In the remote Iya Valley, buckwheat soba noodles are served thick and rustic, often cold and accompanied by seasonal mountain vegetables. The rough terrain historically made rice farming difficult, so soba became a staple.
Dekomawashi
This local festival food features skewered tofu, konnyaku, and potato, brushed with miso and grilled over charcoal. It’s both fun and hearty—a taste of Tokushima’s deep rural culture.
Awa Odori Cuisine
During the famous Awa Odori dance festival, street food stalls take over Tokushima City, selling dishes like:
- Tokushima Ramen: A rich pork-bone and soy sauce broth with raw egg and sweet pork belly on top.
- Otsukemono and Miso Dishes: Fermented vegetables and miso-based dips are everywhere, reflecting a preservation-heavy food tradition.
Cultural Note:
Tokushima’s cuisine is resourceful and rooted in mountain life, with bold fermented flavors and reliance on preserved goods due to its isolated past.
Conclusion: Shikoku, the Hidden Island Feast
Shikoku may be the least visited of Japan’s four main islands, but its food scene is among the most soulful and rewarding. Whether you’re slurping handmade Sanuki udon in Kagawa, indulging in smoky katsuo no tataki in Kochi, tasting fermented sushi in Tokushima, or sipping mikan juice in sunny Ehime, each bite tells the story of resilience, resourcefulness, and regional pride.
The island’s natural beauty, spiritual depth, and culinary simplicity make it a must for any food lover seeking the “real” Japan—off the beaten path, yet full of flavor.
So when you come to Shikoku, come hungry. The island is ready to feed your spirit—and your stomach.
